Yes, it really has been that long since my last post and that's because boys and girls I ran out of motivation to sew anything, but alas my sewing bug has returneth!
At the beginning of March, I made a start on a Mary I style hood for this years Kentwell events. For this, I took the measurement from the middle on my head to the bottom of my ear, but making sure I squared it off (does that make sense?) as they Mary I hood is quite boxy! I also measured from the centre of my head to the back of my head so I knew the depth the hood should, roughly, be. Then I took these measurements and drew them onto scrap paper before transferring onto cardboard for a toile. I was pleased with the initial results, but I did have to take a bit off of the depth and shape the ends a little.
Once I was happy, I drew the pattern onto some stiff buckram. I then sewed on some millinery wire around the edges so that the hood could be shaped. After this, I covered the buckram in some scrap cotton (using the pattern and adding seam allowance) - this protects and provides a smooth layer before the fashion fabric is attached.
A week later, I sewed on the fashion fabric - a fine black silk - and then the lining underneath. I then left the hood again until the weekend just gone, when I managed to pluck up the courage to sew on the billiment (hood decoration). I used pearls for this (fake ones) and I started sewing them on individually, until I realised how complicated it was. I decided to thread them onto doubled embroidery thread as I have heard tale of people damaging their hoods and all their decoration falling off! When I had my string of pearls, I then sewing them onto the back edge of the hood sewing a few stitches between each pearl.
I then left my hood to let my fingers recover from severe needle action! For the veil, I used the toile one I made for a French hood I made while I was at Sixth Form as the pattern piece. I can't remember where I got the pattern for it from, but The Tudor Tailor does provide a good pattern (or you might be able to draft one by looking at my photos). I made the veil in the same black silk as the hood. I hemmed the top and bottom before sewing the sides together. I then sewed about half of the veil onto the back edge of the hood and gathered the other half so that it would fit nicely onto the head.