Another Jacket: Part 2

Well, I managed to get my jacket finished before the new year. I cut out the wool and linen and sewed them up separately and then sewed them both together at the neckline and hem. I then patterned for some sleeves. I used the pattern I had for my polonaise gown to get me started and adjusted it to make them full length. I made a toile before cutting out the real thing and they fitted perfectly.

I used the sewing machine to contruct the sleeves, partly because I couldn't face hand sewing them and partly because the fabric is quite thick where there are seams! I sewed the wool and linen together at the cuff first before opening them out and sewing down the main sleeve seam. I then sewed them into the jacket with the seam at the back and about an inch of gathers at the back too - just like on my gown.

Then tried it on. Again, I needed to take in a lot of fabric on the jacket straps - I think it's time for me to draft a new pattern for these! And I also pinned the line I needed to sew down at the centre front. For this, I turned the wool and linen inside the jacket and ladder stitched it up. I then sewed on some hook and eye tape for the fastening.

It was after trying it on, to find it gaping, that the original jacket had concealed lacing. So this was what I did. I had some scrap home-made binding leftover and used 10" for each side and sewed in some eyelets. Using shoelaces as a temporary measure and cross-lacing it, it worked - no more gaping, huzzah! I'm rather pleased with the result. I also made a bow from some scrap wool for decoration.