tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20735714213640998382024-03-05T05:57:30.413-08:00The Sewing BoxThe Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.comBlogger73125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-26276450328426334272015-02-03T11:17:00.000-08:002015-02-03T11:17:12.999-08:00WAAF Skirt, or how to make a 4 panel skirt in a day.I'm in the middle of getting kit together for my last WW2 interpretation - Womens Auxiliary Air Force.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkA6-Suz33waktcErE7Bgf9q0Oq2RkHue0jGkujMKIZAB8ngAFqsvu5PZA8tsekNLnFMxEGl02zPBvaBvSiKb-itm7GzHGknAX2EeTSPlhOjFKYR0m4gb1ncbJZzbr4tXaBNaSpoqd7lg/s1600/large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkA6-Suz33waktcErE7Bgf9q0Oq2RkHue0jGkujMKIZAB8ngAFqsvu5PZA8tsekNLnFMxEGl02zPBvaBvSiKb-itm7GzHGknAX2EeTSPlhOjFKYR0m4gb1ncbJZzbr4tXaBNaSpoqd7lg/s1600/large.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original at the IWM</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Getting the right fabric for WAAF is really hard, the colour never seems to be quite right. Anyway, I managed to find someone selling some old Hainsworth blue-grey barathea on eBay which is lighter than Hainsworth's current range.<br />
<br />
With this I've made a skirt. WAAF skirts are made up of four panels and they don't have a waistband, the opening is at the front and on the left as you wear it. Simple! This pattern can be used for modern skirts too! So how did I go about it?...<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWDvmCT6FIHmtnipuzuDKCXQ0qlT2-P3qAIh1WvC6ty_jf56DxZ7wsO2wVgyy1AcMbuARZ_s7_jp95j56pZdNheBXaOEIayj8BY9Nt8vqv9znx3D1hYOvP2-G4FZUZtb2FoOGPlWDIk18/s1600/IMAG2423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWDvmCT6FIHmtnipuzuDKCXQ0qlT2-P3qAIh1WvC6ty_jf56DxZ7wsO2wVgyy1AcMbuARZ_s7_jp95j56pZdNheBXaOEIayj8BY9Nt8vqv9znx3D1hYOvP2-G4FZUZtb2FoOGPlWDIk18/s1600/IMAG2423.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a><br />
Notions:<br />- 150cm fabric, any width should do.<br />
- matching thread<br />
- 1 x button<br />
- 3 x hooks and eyes (you can use a zip if you are making a modern skirt).<br />
- 1-2m Petersham ribbon (Grosgrain will also suffice), about 1.5 to 2" wide.<br />
<br />
Method:<br />
- Measure your waist and hips (as I wear a girdle for WW2 I made sure I wore this to get a more accurate measurement). Add a little extra for ease - if for example your hips are 35" then add an extra inch or two to allow for movement. Also measure from your waist to 3" below the knee if making a WAAF skirt, or to your desired length if making a modern skirt, and from waist to hip.<br />
- Divide your final waist and hip measurements by four. This is then how big your skirt panels will be.<br />
- Fold your fabric so both selvedge edges meet in the middle (or any other way you choose, whichever is more economical). This means you will cut the panels on the fold meaning you then need to half your measurements when drawing the pattern. <br />
- From top edge, assuming it's level (or make it level) measure and draw with chalk 1/2" , this is the seam allowance to be turned over at the waist. Mark your waist measurement (half of the quartered total as previously mentioned). Use your waist-hip measurement to determine where you are to mark your hip measurement. Then from the waist seam (not including the 1/2" turnover) mark on the length.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFUuLtcDY0mhfNVLED2lS1BGyfRSwEezaw_ngF3WNxlhD1cInY3mmfkWI44KT_Xv5VoMtMy-h1HR3WKf6otIqYU-nELZtMCWXRB1_gmKWWHDdZSsx5wPi6gbqKyGsViXri6iXpFaTgc-M/s1600/IMAG2440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFUuLtcDY0mhfNVLED2lS1BGyfRSwEezaw_ngF3WNxlhD1cInY3mmfkWI44KT_Xv5VoMtMy-h1HR3WKf6otIqYU-nELZtMCWXRB1_gmKWWHDdZSsx5wPi6gbqKyGsViXri6iXpFaTgc-M/s1600/IMAG2440.jpg" height="200" width="133" /></a>- Draw through the waist and hip marks to connect them and continue to the chosen length. Please note, the waist and hips may not fall in a straight line, this doesn't matter just draw a straight line from the waist and there will just be extra room for your hips! Also because the line is at an angle, the length measurement will appear shorter than the one drawn on the straight, just connect these two measurements with a curve (see photo).<br />
- Now the important measurements are drawn on (you can always measure them and double check) you need to add on seam allowance. The waist is already done. For the side seams I used 1" which allows for any alterations if needs be, and for the hem I used 2".<br />
- Cut out the panel and repeat for the rest of the panels.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFBD_ZMLJI2JqvH9TaQ5uYQq79ywXsfyjhc3ZLlLG3c8MQijSX766tdKzhCSy8f5ISaydSrPg_HqvcVKm-U0XZT7TRLSom6neKupeFvON55Txl0v1_iVsDZRIntBgrSXrYqYGjUOJmDBw/s1600/IMAG2441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFBD_ZMLJI2JqvH9TaQ5uYQq79ywXsfyjhc3ZLlLG3c8MQijSX766tdKzhCSy8f5ISaydSrPg_HqvcVKm-U0XZT7TRLSom6neKupeFvON55Txl0v1_iVsDZRIntBgrSXrYqYGjUOJmDBw/s1600/IMAG2441.jpg" height="200" width="133" /></a>- Pin the panels together leaving a gap of 6" from the top edge on one seam. This will allow you to get in and out of the skirt! Sew the seams and then neaten them (also neaten the gap you left). <br />
- Zig-zag stitch along the top edge to stop it from fraying. <br />
- From the fabric, cut a placket. The finished size should be the length of your opening (so 6" in my case) and at least 3-4" wide. <br />
- Sew the placket onto the left side panel (see photo) leaving a 1/2" gap at the top.<br />
- With the ribbon, neaten one end. With right sides together, pin the ribbon along the waist edge. (NB. don't pull it tight because the ribbon is straight whereas the skirt flares out). Stitch into place, neatening the other end when you get there. On the outside, top stitch along the waist edge.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8d-u5XiX-MR2kkYECUDrqdTI3Yl-WKhpTJK9rtFwIuQdz6CGAlxI3zh-1j5IEOkCSSU7yGX6lKUz8AlGOrqGUjPVfQfWQf7F8qCsIBbU_DEqz8IuatV80dtRtdxybqQl1xJQtRvmZ3mU/s1600/IMAG2442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8d-u5XiX-MR2kkYECUDrqdTI3Yl-WKhpTJK9rtFwIuQdz6CGAlxI3zh-1j5IEOkCSSU7yGX6lKUz8AlGOrqGUjPVfQfWQf7F8qCsIBbU_DEqz8IuatV80dtRtdxybqQl1xJQtRvmZ3mU/s1600/IMAG2442.jpg" height="133" width="200" /></a>- If you've allowed 2" for the hem, pin up 1" and stitch along the folded edge. Then turn it up another inch and pin in place. This is then ready to hand sew later.<br />
- Make a button hole. I used the machine. This will go on the front panel on the left along the waist (see photo). You may need to trim the fabric in the waist if it is a little bulky!<br />
<br />
- Trim all loose/hanging threads.<br />
- Hand sew the hem.<br />
- Sew a few stitches where the ribbon meets the skirt seams, this will hold the ribbon in place.<br />
- Sew the ends of the ribbon down. <br />
- Sew a button onto the placket so it matches up with the button hole.<br />
- Sew on hooks and eyes along the opening. <br />
<br />
Done! Any questions, then don't hesitate to ask!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-83540613604595096872013-02-21T09:15:00.001-08:002013-02-21T09:15:30.995-08:00A Lace Cap<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCGzX7vrN2JeQqsiCRhhjo3cxNqwXQA_7Wt4Bdq31Wxxjx9JgIopeQdn2Y6KrMdlB-OZJ8u52goQsezMU1wMvEWwRHwwIVUeMyEw1Az_mHTZLW1cseLcIz6jlqn8q6fpo-XtsWw53WQQc/s1600/009+(3).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCGzX7vrN2JeQqsiCRhhjo3cxNqwXQA_7Wt4Bdq31Wxxjx9JgIopeQdn2Y6KrMdlB-OZJ8u52goQsezMU1wMvEWwRHwwIVUeMyEw1Az_mHTZLW1cseLcIz6jlqn8q6fpo-XtsWw53WQQc/s320/009+(3).JPG" width="320" /></a>To go with my posh pet en l'air, I needed some new and suitable head wear, so I made myself a lace cap.<br />
<br />
I managed to pick up a length (5 foot x 6 inches, and I still have a bit left over) of floral Victorian lace for £5 in a lovely vintage shop in Holt, Norfolk.<br />
<br />
To start, cut a circle from the lace with about a 5" diameter (including a 1/2" seam allowance). You may way to put your hair up in a high bun and measure for yourself, especially for those with long hair. But mine covers my bun nicely with ample room for pinning it to my hair.<br />
<br />
With the rest of the lace (with the end trimmed so it's straight) sew it, right side to right side, to the edge of the circle you have cut, forming 1" box pleats all the way around.<br />
<br />
Once you have gone all the way round and have cut off any excess lace, the ends on the cap need to be neatened. I did mine by folding them into the pleats to conceal them. At this point, you may want to try on the cap to see how it lies on your head. I found mine came a bit too far forward, so a made a little pleat in the crown of the cap and stitched it in place. <br />
<br />
Now it's time to add some ribbon for decoration. I used a lilac to match with the purple flowers on my silk brocade. First I cut a length of ribbon about 20cm long, folded it in half and sewed it to the centre back. Then I sewed more ribbon about the edge of the circle of the cap, sewing the outer edge then the inner edge. <br />
<br />
Et voila, a finished lace cap that can be made in an hour!The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-87062333624839252702013-02-21T08:54:00.001-08:002013-02-21T08:54:06.168-08:00A Stunning Stomacher<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8IdEEFGGB86qii2E96qTn_9EzhSJ-nOwn5Zr_WgnP8IrhmuRr4J-vKDOUtAbfAj_8W-G8fjPsyyb_c9-K3y2xEibTL7QLx_HimMJrwCMdcIwnV82L4qZZ7TVBthwln0K0y9ZmRu0PqWY/s1600/024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8IdEEFGGB86qii2E96qTn_9EzhSJ-nOwn5Zr_WgnP8IrhmuRr4J-vKDOUtAbfAj_8W-G8fjPsyyb_c9-K3y2xEibTL7QLx_HimMJrwCMdcIwnV82L4qZZ7TVBthwln0K0y9ZmRu0PqWY/s320/024.JPG" width="320" /></a>Even if I say so myself! Actually, many friends have commented on how good it looks, so here it goes...<br />
<br />
When making my posh pet en l'air, I was using the same silk throughout as I had plenty of it. So when it came to making the stomacher I wanted something with a bit of texture for it to stand out. My first idea (zig zag gathering) failed completely...twice! This meant I had to come up with a different idea. I settled for smocking.<br />
<br />
I found the perfect pattern and instructions which meant none of the complicated and precise gathers that normal smocking requires. This is the <a href="http://tumblingblocks.net/blog/2008/09/22/Honeycomb-Smocking-Tutorial/">pattern and instructions</a> I used. <br />
<br />
The only complicated bit was ironing the pleats. You have to have a LOT of patience and a hot iron. Oh, and LOADS of metal pins. I don't think it mentions pins, but I highly recommend pinning each individual pleat once you've ironed it otherwise they wont stay in place!<br />
<br />
Once I had all my pleats in place and ironed to within an inch of their death, I drew around the pattern of the stomacher onto the silk then tacked down the areas I would NOT be smocking and also along the top and bottom. This meant I could take out all those pins. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1syekO5aYm0-7vplLp_S-6DzqLFnKVIFCyHPqc8ChTJ1_5_sbUeRS07w-dD2zDQYFxYJayFyBGO5QEFpyh0KwUB59yErex7oZl_aIf9EHwt9kRLq7uanTnD_jrXC_S-RnPq_HkFK0UJw/s1600/012+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="173" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1syekO5aYm0-7vplLp_S-6DzqLFnKVIFCyHPqc8ChTJ1_5_sbUeRS07w-dD2zDQYFxYJayFyBGO5QEFpyh0KwUB59yErex7oZl_aIf9EHwt9kRLq7uanTnD_jrXC_S-RnPq_HkFK0UJw/s200/012+(2).JPG" width="200" /></a>The first stitches the instructions say to make, I used matching thread, and I made my rows an inch apart as I thought it would look more dainty. For the stitches to form the 'honeycomb' effect, I used gold thread to add a bit of 'bling', I'm hoping this will show up under the right lighting.<br />
<br />
<br />
You will find that the stomacher ends up smaller than the pattern, but this is ok because it stretches to its intended size. I also found that it is far easier and neater to bind the edges when attaching the interfacing and lining as it lies better and the binding allows for it to be pinned into place. The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-46197179123616988882013-02-21T04:23:00.000-08:002013-02-21T04:23:05.400-08:00Pet en L'air Extraordinaire! This post is a sewing pattern review.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ImqtXG1DmVX9jKB4RBmFaviVx6fD3zf7h556rgv8mLSlSZ4t5PzXZK6EAA4E04nqmk36eLW8z75koF0nOVjAVpb0sN5c9nJnLQpXMEruq9qTCQVzms9pwjv0H1CZ25zJwKave5jf-78/s1600/001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ImqtXG1DmVX9jKB4RBmFaviVx6fD3zf7h556rgv8mLSlSZ4t5PzXZK6EAA4E04nqmk36eLW8z75koF0nOVjAVpb0sN5c9nJnLQpXMEruq9qTCQVzms9pwjv0H1CZ25zJwKave5jf-78/s200/001.JPG" width="133" /></a>A few years ago, bought a bulk amount of silk in a sale which I thought would be perfect for a posh pet en l'air (there wasn't enough for a Robe a la Francaise), and last summer I bought a few meters of some striped cotton which was perfect for a 'scummy' pet en l'air.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi61qSuqUDrQanWHnAEgoihqQM8i1DmQsMwGzdIabM5VCq5SpSS6yspEMnTvnc09LHL753qc5HdS4qB1Kdjt-XiHtM5txz0Xem66n2Q5_Z3LdiQaxHwcUjEskBlwla9ZC2I_RuBKC3xpVM/s1600/005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi61qSuqUDrQanWHnAEgoihqQM8i1DmQsMwGzdIabM5VCq5SpSS6yspEMnTvnc09LHL753qc5HdS4qB1Kdjt-XiHtM5txz0Xem66n2Q5_Z3LdiQaxHwcUjEskBlwla9ZC2I_RuBKC3xpVM/s200/005.JPG" width="155" /></a>The only problem I faced was the pattern. I have my own copy of Janet Arnold, but there was no way I was going to be able to size it up with all those pleats in it! So I did a search of historical patterns online and came across the American ones by J.P.Ryan. I chose this one as all their patterns are taken from the Janet Arnold book and all the sizing has been done for you! A note for UK people: I have only found these patterns on American websites, or the German one <a href="http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html">Nehelenia Patterns.</a> I bought mine from the latter as I didn't want to risk paying customs. But from either country, they cost about £20 per pattern.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikidhB-bLkmWMVl3XMn__zS-IXhCAJt5XyX7_4jTjBUoDdxBGa0hHWtdceJpMktMkJW0Wb1OfOnI7xbTP2ri5aRAZhQBmnBOfFUp-sECbEcI4lQts7dELfr4u5Z4RwpohubAHHxumZqFo/s1600/001+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikidhB-bLkmWMVl3XMn__zS-IXhCAJt5XyX7_4jTjBUoDdxBGa0hHWtdceJpMktMkJW0Wb1OfOnI7xbTP2ri5aRAZhQBmnBOfFUp-sECbEcI4lQts7dELfr4u5Z4RwpohubAHHxumZqFo/s200/001+%25283%2529.JPG" width="118" /></a></div>
The pattern itself was a dream! It recommended to make the lining first and use it as a toile - it fitted first time! I would recommend reading the instructions through slowly and carefully as it can be a little confusing when using for the first time, but that might just be me...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2GRSkSZtjdyiq2r7kpqBFCuoBbjq5AIhxrd1UGGV-ISTMEcXYf47U4HYcTkNVMQSVAen4X3esvZ8dNG3UGkUurSmsFwFGoiZwxZs7IKVxJ4Ow0ojBak9o6vVbK_uxXD_vMfc4OKW5tf0/s1600/003+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2GRSkSZtjdyiq2r7kpqBFCuoBbjq5AIhxrd1UGGV-ISTMEcXYf47U4HYcTkNVMQSVAen4X3esvZ8dNG3UGkUurSmsFwFGoiZwxZs7IKVxJ4Ow0ojBak9o6vVbK_uxXD_vMfc4OKW5tf0/s200/003+%25282%2529.JPG" width="136" /></a>Now, you may be wondering how I made the decoration on my posh pet en l'air, or you've read the post about my the petticoat where I said I'd reveal all after I had finished said outfit. I like to call them silk 'intestines' or 'sausages' as essentially, that is was they look like! For the length, measure what it is you want to decorated - my pet en l'air was just under 6m - plus add any seam allowance for any piecing and for neatening either end, and add extra as it does shrink a little when gathered. The width depends on purely how puffy you want it to be - The ones on my pet en l'air and petticoat are about 4 inches, whereas the ones around my cuffs are about 1 inch. Once the strips of fabric are sewn together (if piecing) and then hemmed, it's time to start gathering! Make your first gather at the end of the strip, where the hemline is, then - depending on the size you want the puffs - gather at every inch, 2 inches, or even 3 inches, it's up to you so experiment and play around to see what you think looks nice.<br />
<br />
When you have your finished strip of 'intestines' or 'sausages', it's time to so them to the clothes. When I was sewing mine on, I sewed a few stitches on either side of the gathers. One thing to remember is not to stretch the puffs too much as otherwise they wont be puffy! As an extra, you could stuff the puffs to make them stand out even more, but this is obviously far more time consuming. The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-61474250205464781762013-01-08T11:43:00.002-08:002013-01-08T14:04:04.013-08:00Petticoats for Pocket HoopsThis is only a brief post to tell you the measurements for any skirt to go over pocket hoops, because of course your body shape has changed.<br />
I've made two - a 'scummy' one from bottle-green linen, and a 'posh' one from silk brocade. These were both made in the same way as my other <a href="http://the-sewing-box.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/c18th-petticoat.html">C18th skirts</a>, it's just the hem that is different. Obviously it will vary depending on your height. I'm 5'4.5" and the hem of my skirts measure 40" at the front and 43" at the sides excluding hem allowance.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje0QTCSBUAM348TxA6QbazDYi9eA7MsHmWNv5l2_rQAnV-s59zegX58rFWOegGBLIKXkTFVEMIhsuf164cqUkOUJBIGBi5KTGQQN5BliElxkOtQyGY7oR2nS85VlMw_4UZPZN_9cCF_fQ/s1600/010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje0QTCSBUAM348TxA6QbazDYi9eA7MsHmWNv5l2_rQAnV-s59zegX58rFWOegGBLIKXkTFVEMIhsuf164cqUkOUJBIGBi5KTGQQN5BliElxkOtQyGY7oR2nS85VlMw_4UZPZN_9cCF_fQ/s200/010.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
You can probably see in the photo that this skirt is decorated differently to others, I will explain how I did this in a future post about my pet en l'air.The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-91142286344232783022013-01-08T11:03:00.001-08:002013-01-08T11:03:22.984-08:00Big Hips are Fashionable! Last September I finally plucked up the courage to make myself some C18th pocket hoops so that I could start doing some 1750s/1760s reenactment if and when required. They only took a day - or a few period drama DVDs! <br />
<br />
To get the measurements I stood in front of my mirror with a tape measure and played about to get the size I wanted. Excluding the boning channels, there are 3 pattern pieces to the pockets - the back, the front, and the bottom.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfP5H8IZUoq3iOuAHi-kHzTmbwycKzWc_Ftp5DQ10WhVGB3pPogkwkJ49ifnrpxX17eGY_dcU2i6851zp5mZ3KrfncB1zCI12rkyGZLeAJ6VEbVa_HfcTYxwdZQIxzhJLOUB4CQ6tuwEI/s1600/005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfP5H8IZUoq3iOuAHi-kHzTmbwycKzWc_Ftp5DQ10WhVGB3pPogkwkJ49ifnrpxX17eGY_dcU2i6851zp5mZ3KrfncB1zCI12rkyGZLeAJ6VEbVa_HfcTYxwdZQIxzhJLOUB4CQ6tuwEI/s200/005.JPG" width="150" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt43u2OkGupdy2OvVafAVy5ZfXqpYkVtZMwBPu9bIhpcKwwsmviZjmuAixr9Fr944oO85bXJ2AfFkhPjj0gekFNWGMYqhBrdeAaA7qEjvIHMeikHcDvVksK3X-aagHv5aDYc7i2c363OQ/s1600/003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt43u2OkGupdy2OvVafAVy5ZfXqpYkVtZMwBPu9bIhpcKwwsmviZjmuAixr9Fr944oO85bXJ2AfFkhPjj0gekFNWGMYqhBrdeAaA7qEjvIHMeikHcDvVksK3X-aagHv5aDYc7i2c363OQ/s200/003.JPG" width="200" /></a><u>Measurements</u> (excluding seam allowance)<br />
Back: 10" long x 9" wide.<br />
Front: 19" long x 18" wide.<br />
Bottom (a 'D' shape): 9" along the straight x 18" on the curve.<br />
<br />
I used a striped heavy cotton (ticking) fabric as the hoops will be under a lot of pressure throughout use. First I started by turning over the edges (apart from the top of the front piece) of all the pieces twice and machine sewing them so that they were neatened - n.b. the curve was only folded over once. I the folded the top of the front pieces over an inch and folded over again, then stitched, to make a channel for the waistband. <br />
<br />
After this, it was time for the boning channels - 3 on each pocket hoop. These were 20" long x 1" wide (the width of the boning plus seam allowance). I used the sewing machine to stitch them to the front pieces, starting and finishing about an 1.5" from the edges. The first one was stitched 7" from the top (not taking into account of seam allowance here), the third at the bottom, and the middle place half way between. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8gTWtRbxUa-iTVnTzR8oHFSBpnQ-vwqKPeinwKpT3rumqPd_KWDS0Wb5B6Wydclbnp833xIT0Lqf_nrwNVthS3qqtJjwr3O-9HyDC-1_wVAQpySHMK2eIpxSo22rnZwCyqTJFpndxfBE/s1600/013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8gTWtRbxUa-iTVnTzR8oHFSBpnQ-vwqKPeinwKpT3rumqPd_KWDS0Wb5B6Wydclbnp833xIT0Lqf_nrwNVthS3qqtJjwr3O-9HyDC-1_wVAQpySHMK2eIpxSo22rnZwCyqTJFpndxfBE/s200/013.JPG" width="136" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5rzRNEZv0VWgiLq-32Ds9pAVVXdpO6eDFmw-sjL3iMg2cdQgCtqVukLOd-HQa6EHQulIKBa40RLXqHtDdegc8InUZxr_RxoVr02Vn_X5pcNbPMeQpjO5d4dHwVrSSwycyEmkHqjXMeFM/s1600/010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5rzRNEZv0VWgiLq-32Ds9pAVVXdpO6eDFmw-sjL3iMg2cdQgCtqVukLOd-HQa6EHQulIKBa40RLXqHtDdegc8InUZxr_RxoVr02Vn_X5pcNbPMeQpjO5d4dHwVrSSwycyEmkHqjXMeFM/s200/010.JPG" width="129" /></a>I then hand sewed, with double thread, the back pieces to the fronts along the sides - the back pieces start at the bottom of the front pieces and finish roughly in line with the boning. The bottom pieces then followed - these needed a little easing as I sewed, but weren't too hard.<br />
<br />
<br />
Once this was done, it was time to insert the boning into the channels. I had some steel boning left over from when I made my C16th Spanish farthingale so I used this - it measured about 1/2" wide. I cut six pieces at about 17.5" long (it is recommended that when boning anything, the bones are at least 1/2" shorter than the boning channel), and protected the ends with pieces of masking tape. After inserting them into the channels, I folded under the remaining channel fabric and stitched down. <br />
<br />
As for getting your hands in...I cut a slit in the centre of the fabric of each pocket starting about 1/2" from the bottom of the waistband channel and finishing about an inch from the edge of the first boning channel. This was bound with some matching bias binding.<br />
<br />
Once I has threaded through some cotton twill tape, the pockets were finished!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZh-hfiAzBnWitG68wE33g1aWUqYJ-gu_aDgwCrWOqgV0TXoLQuOJwuJiRCt7bh2-hYlOtdlHSZM89PCK0ApEt2jxKFWJ7YMARxX9IHX4anBl74EwI1KTOwObKIFxfetl96Vvck7qzDjk/s1600/018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZh-hfiAzBnWitG68wE33g1aWUqYJ-gu_aDgwCrWOqgV0TXoLQuOJwuJiRCt7bh2-hYlOtdlHSZM89PCK0ApEt2jxKFWJ7YMARxX9IHX4anBl74EwI1KTOwObKIFxfetl96Vvck7qzDjk/s320/018.JPG" width="244" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-40885140824353749572013-01-04T11:31:00.002-08:002013-01-04T11:31:16.911-08:00How to make your bum look big (on purpose)Having acquired a copy of the <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nineteenth-Century-Fashion-Detail-Lucy-Johnston/dp/1851775722/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357326359&sr=8-1">V&A Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail </a>this time last year, I ended up falling in love with one of the 1880s outfits. As most people know, late C19th requires wearing a bustle...I didn't fancy making one of those. Instead I opted for a bustle pad used in the 1870s, but thought it would give a similar effect. There was a bustle in the aforementioned book which I wanted to copy.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBmhK7qaZezJ0zuSkNVcu3b5v9xmkdKpWxgDslO5dVkgJUvb_HBfxMNHM73sIwbJDC004O92hQsen49wo5UIGPk4L7ZQkKb_Fw7klmdl9kmDjw9bk93-0hGlAevu7uZTdDoZBQXK-m0y8/s1600/DSCN0185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBmhK7qaZezJ0zuSkNVcu3b5v9xmkdKpWxgDslO5dVkgJUvb_HBfxMNHM73sIwbJDC004O92hQsen49wo5UIGPk4L7ZQkKb_Fw7klmdl9kmDjw9bk93-0hGlAevu7uZTdDoZBQXK-m0y8/s200/DSCN0185.JPG" width="143" /></a></div>
<br />
I actually started making the bustle pad in April, but never got round to finishing it. I started with the two bottom pads and used the pattern from my <a href="http://the-sewing-box.blogspot.co.uk/2010/08/smocks-and-petal-bums.html">'petal bum'</a> to make them. The bottom one being made a bit longer and the next one half the size in length. Like the original, I machine stitched them with an inverted French seam.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi4asZ9X_uB9kEbIN5ljPPkPqd6wfP54WVesEXPUQxTCYRvMGo2B5pPa5tMn516WcpJpFI5ZB2QiGLnSzoM1wZolwRkIkTeoymBSBGcW65TxivE9YnB8ZAm0o7JUPgXgquosngwDHVihU/s1600/027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi4asZ9X_uB9kEbIN5ljPPkPqd6wfP54WVesEXPUQxTCYRvMGo2B5pPa5tMn516WcpJpFI5ZB2QiGLnSzoM1wZolwRkIkTeoymBSBGcW65TxivE9YnB8ZAm0o7JUPgXgquosngwDHVihU/s320/027.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
When I returned to them this year, I found that the bottom one was a bit too big and over-stuffed. To rectify this, I made it slightly more square by taking the curves in by about an inch, and (of course) taking some of the stuffing out.<br />
<br />Another problem I encountered was that I couldn't find the left over fabric to make the rest of the pads. Fortunately, the two pads I had already made were enough padding for me and gave the right shape. <br />
I then attached the smaller pad to the bigger one. I pinned it 1" from the top of the big one and machine stitched it in place (about 1/2") and then pinned and stitched the bottom of the small one so it wouldn't flop about (does that make sense?).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIJTlOUK5hFKKIyTJsFEHkUXtj_Ap36wbWHuU3sQVdQ2i1_onDdezZlY3Z3ux5hBf5vynqB8Ws3zcw0VT49Xk1-k9j3ztVF9iah5vZLN1uFu3CLAKF7bc6vssXARCTyrc54yRFLlBHJ3A/s1600/Colchester-20130104-00264.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIJTlOUK5hFKKIyTJsFEHkUXtj_Ap36wbWHuU3sQVdQ2i1_onDdezZlY3Z3ux5hBf5vynqB8Ws3zcw0VT49Xk1-k9j3ztVF9iah5vZLN1uFu3CLAKF7bc6vssXARCTyrc54yRFLlBHJ3A/s320/Colchester-20130104-00264.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The original bustle pad had ties for the waist and hips. I used some cotton tape for this and machine stitched them to the pad. The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-58204930553959825742013-01-04T04:47:00.000-08:002013-01-04T04:47:07.188-08:00How to turn a cheap blouse into a 1920s dress.Firstly, I apologise for the extremely long break in posts - one excuse is being busy with events and making kit, the other being just too lazy to update...<br />But I will update you all on everything I've made since last July. <br /><br />Let's get down to business on my most recent make - a 1920s dress. For Christmas I received <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Costume-Detail-Womens-Dress-1730-1930/dp/1858820383/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1357300497&sr=1-1">Costume in Detail: Women's Dress 1730-1930.</a> When I was flicking through it, I fell in love with one of the 1920s dresses. Now, due to my shape I tend to avoid the 1920s altogether, but it looked so simple to make as it gave measurements, and my Grandma had given me some old sheets to use for toiles - the striped ones being too good for such a purpose. <br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHkWl6bglpD6zwBeDph9MlTvkuRqiHsv0OM0pr6f5C8PsjsmaXruTOY8HTA87oDOcop1gJCV8HlKyh2cRPiGIqHl2jxp8t04H9eiMhWGTZvZiVM5NlCHMDHM9FeDp52jMElcvj2NPW8ys/s1600/IMG1356549298693.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHkWl6bglpD6zwBeDph9MlTvkuRqiHsv0OM0pr6f5C8PsjsmaXruTOY8HTA87oDOcop1gJCV8HlKyh2cRPiGIqHl2jxp8t04H9eiMhWGTZvZiVM5NlCHMDHM9FeDp52jMElcvj2NPW8ys/s320/IMG1356549298693.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Looking at the design, the bodice of the dress is essentially a blouse worn back to front. I popped into my local supermarket and picked up a cheap blouse (a size bigger than I normally would have) costing me £4. When I got home, I cut off the collar, shortened the sleeves (going by the measurements in the book), shortened the length (going by the book), re-cut the neckline, and took out the darts. This fitted just how it should and I didn't have to make any complicated measurements or drawings. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWuU-NyNpEjppcO9aHdcyNHd3swO9S0ssrIGOCdrBzORGhIBLu6NNWrSHQupf2LaubQHuxuNjKfHG5bhH7nitbaT1KrE8WX2m4jnhD3ix7sGIh44MLcReSirah55vQTqb91ZL8B_rS7uw/s1600/010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWuU-NyNpEjppcO9aHdcyNHd3swO9S0ssrIGOCdrBzORGhIBLu6NNWrSHQupf2LaubQHuxuNjKfHG5bhH7nitbaT1KrE8WX2m4jnhD3ix7sGIh44MLcReSirah55vQTqb91ZL8B_rS7uw/s320/010.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
I was then able to unpick the blouse so I would have my pattern pieces. I kept one sleeve, the pieces with the button holes on (I will cut off the buttons on the other piece before chucking it out!), and the back piece (now the front) which I cut in half so it can be cut on the fold. <br />
<br />
I cut the pieces out of the fashion fabric, adding on an inch for the seam allowance, 1.5" to the hem, and an extra two inches for the centre back. I then reinforced the neckline by stitching along it 1/2" from the edge before sewing the side seams and shoulder. To neaten the seams, I folded each one over individually and stitched.<br />
<br />
Next came the sleeves. Sew and neaten the side seam and then the cuff. For some reason the sleeve didn't fit in the armhole as neatly as it did on the blouse - there was more fabric - so I just added an inverted box pleat which did the trick and looks fine. The armhole seam allowance was trimmed to half and then zig zag stitched. For the centre backs, fold over an inch (right sides together) then fold over again. Stitch down at the top, trim seam allowance and then turn right side out. Iron the centre back flat down the length of the bodice.<br />
<br />
For the neckline, I made a facing - a scrap of fabric with some iron on Vilene.The top edge matched the neckline of the bodice. The pieces were stitched right sides together, trimmed, and the curve clipped before being turned the right way and ironed flat. I then stitched the neckline to hold it in place, a few millimetres in from the edge should do it.<br />
<br />
Then it was time for the piping, this was along the bottom edge. I have never sewn piping on a machine, so I did by hand and it didn't take too long either! I had allowed myself 1/2" for the channel. I marked this on the bodice (starting an inch up from the hem) and sewed the channel as I held the piping into place, adding extra stitched as the ends to stop it from sliding about.<br />
<br />
Time for the two skirts. I followed the measurements in the book for these too. The longest measured 20" and the shortest at 14" (although mine is slightly shorter than that as I didn't want to waste fabric). As for the width, I used two widths of the sheet, but I would recommend anything from double the hem measurement on your bodice to allow for gathers.<br />
<br />
I stitched the side seams, and neatened them, and then the hem. I then placed the two skirt together along the top and stitched them together 1/2" from the edge. To allow for ease when putting the dress on, I cut a slit 4" long in the centre of one of the halves of the skirt - this would be the centre back. I stay-stitched 1/4" from the edge and then bound it with some cotton tape. As for the gathers - the back half of the skirt is now essentially in two pieces. Gather each piece (from the side seam to the back) and pin to the bodice arranging the the gathers evenly and then stitch into place. Do the same for the front half of the skirt, gathering, and stitching it to the front half of the bodice. Once this is done, zig zag stitch the seam allowance and iron upwards into the bodice.<br />
<br />
For the buttons, I used thirteen 1/2" self-cover buttons (according to the book), but ordinary buttons will also suffice if they match well. As for the button holes - the first measured 1" from the top edge and the rest from then on measured 1 1/4". This may be different for others depending on their size. <br />
<br />
Next comes the belt loops. I used some leftover fabric/Vilene from the facing and cut two pieces 1" wide by 2" long. I ironed the long edges into the middle before folding the top and bottom edges and hand sewing them to the side seams, 2" from the piping. This is to hold a ribbon into place - anything from 1.5 - 2" wide.<br />
<br />
Lastly came the lace. The original dress has a 2" wide lace, fortunately I had some in my sewing box which pretty much matches the original. This was sewn around the collar and to the inside of the sleeves.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUGWeFdeD9gFQnD_lFNS7Fj2JMMblQZJNaxD3cqsv_u8gnreOyzJkl6z31s0fK7BqLPqPBWPGEUlX-If1JbUDB-fNXquaYt4D-Vy61jxkOGMiyTTO0THlytS0lxoYLHcedC_aaVz5U6Qc/s1600/031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUGWeFdeD9gFQnD_lFNS7Fj2JMMblQZJNaxD3cqsv_u8gnreOyzJkl6z31s0fK7BqLPqPBWPGEUlX-If1JbUDB-fNXquaYt4D-Vy61jxkOGMiyTTO0THlytS0lxoYLHcedC_aaVz5U6Qc/s200/031.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhboPrXVjeavz6rtHWbGrN_VzDNX5qSpzfX1arYL6lExfEELJtRV4pPDMq-KNg6OVZTaq_BKA0_5a0rp91bL-KwSvOFoavaVFQJdLVwU8qRWoQuG4i31qggA8yUIuDm1h7s-sIYorkrff8/s1600/029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhboPrXVjeavz6rtHWbGrN_VzDNX5qSpzfX1arYL6lExfEELJtRV4pPDMq-KNg6OVZTaq_BKA0_5a0rp91bL-KwSvOFoavaVFQJdLVwU8qRWoQuG4i31qggA8yUIuDm1h7s-sIYorkrff8/s320/029.JPG" width="198" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9kgoz9IIS09VDqf8Gd6m3OJSrKfwIzh3M3cSNeQcFcJjzeZ47yVtvQY0ZQUXcEvQHPYSgLKlHZcElU_wVtwgIV7XgZ2YduA86NtSgFAJfJhKMI8Q4u8BDA7xpu6I5p2tJVkfTaPQqQgU/s1600/020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9kgoz9IIS09VDqf8Gd6m3OJSrKfwIzh3M3cSNeQcFcJjzeZ47yVtvQY0ZQUXcEvQHPYSgLKlHZcElU_wVtwgIV7XgZ2YduA86NtSgFAJfJhKMI8Q4u8BDA7xpu6I5p2tJVkfTaPQqQgU/s320/020.JPG" width="204" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-13220278869139259302012-07-21T08:28:00.002-07:002012-07-21T08:28:23.559-07:00A Pocketbook<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH69xhd1WHQxvO4FuIM1G8Qzy5aimwZ1-55a4z4WD_BYAI0jrbX0iAayN4ksycUOoFaBeqct9_oZHUNM2rtJCtFYKb9nLNi-yuq5Op7lALzg-SoR4YglxvAAF3JsqJi30SWmRqnCHvYrw/s1600/042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH69xhd1WHQxvO4FuIM1G8Qzy5aimwZ1-55a4z4WD_BYAI0jrbX0iAayN4ksycUOoFaBeqct9_oZHUNM2rtJCtFYKb9nLNi-yuq5Op7lALzg-SoR4YglxvAAF3JsqJi30SWmRqnCHvYrw/s320/042.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Today I have whipped up an C18th pocketbook. I was going to do it last weekend during an event, but it got cancelled due to flooding. <br />
<br />
I got my inspiration and basic ideas from this <a href="http://artbeautyandwell-orderedchaos.blogspot.co.uk/2009/06/18th-century-pocketbooks.html">blog</a>. I used the same measurements for the main pocketbook piece and then made an additional pocket based on the measurements I already had. For my pocketbook, I used some scraps of leftover linen - stripe from my skirt and plain white. I also used some tape for the binding.<br />
<br />
The whole process is pretty simple. I first bound the two sides and bottom edge of the pocket flap and the top edge of the pocket (the one that was to be sewn on to the pocketbook itself). After this, I turned under the bottom edge of said appliqué pocket and sewed it to one end of the main pocketbook (about an inch in).<br />
<br />
Now came the binding of the main pocketbook. My starting point was towards the end of one of the long sides, I did this so I could bind in the appliqué pocket as I went, and when I reached the short end, I bound in the pocket flap too. I followed the instructions of the aforementioned blog and made my lining slightly longer. As I reached the middle of my pocketbook, I box pleated the lining before continuing binding. I think that was the only fiddly bit I had to do!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ1_dGUsmbAhbRhTiCsYD_XxHqKAr4vMTWmvMxz2X6q8XqAK1TfEx6KcCpDb-kK5VSLOsfQoAnVXVbVTWpZSYH1P1V16FOM644_mJUUJx0GzvsXy9RiVRSiWCdha6GzAWe_KedaavXXA4/s1600/005+%282%29.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="173" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ1_dGUsmbAhbRhTiCsYD_XxHqKAr4vMTWmvMxz2X6q8XqAK1TfEx6KcCpDb-kK5VSLOsfQoAnVXVbVTWpZSYH1P1V16FOM644_mJUUJx0GzvsXy9RiVRSiWCdha6GzAWe_KedaavXXA4/s200/005+%282%29.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_QG2M8OjH3DgCW2dFU-u-PQ-sE5Dgfm8o_E_rmAE7WpWe6bn6nvBLZiOy_XnjMXSJqvZ8g-GTCUbuj1EZRqEeN7YTw9CLlNyfprcPrVgd5mw7Vh9eynMnbbao6NlR64qaujJWX7oQq68/s1600/004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="145" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_QG2M8OjH3DgCW2dFU-u-PQ-sE5Dgfm8o_E_rmAE7WpWe6bn6nvBLZiOy_XnjMXSJqvZ8g-GTCUbuj1EZRqEeN7YTw9CLlNyfprcPrVgd5mw7Vh9eynMnbbao6NlR64qaujJWX7oQq68/s200/004.JPG" width="200" /></a>I was then that I realised that the other end of my pocket book will look bare, so I cut a square of felt and sewed it to the stripy linen (avoiding the lining) so I had somewhere to put pins and needles. Once I had finished binding, I then folded in either end to create the main pockets. I left an inch gap in the middle of the pocketbook in total. Finally I added some ties to keep it all together. <span id="goog_1506284365"></span><span id="goog_1506284366"></span>The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-43193654722757192522012-07-19T09:58:00.001-07:002012-07-19T09:58:14.976-07:00Finished Bonnet and ReticuleThe ribbon came for my bonnet today and I bought a tassel for my reticule so I was able to finish off both items.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSUPTy8Nj4ryMw_XB3_hE0Fv3SCnonZKC5H7n7wq3R06MCWJpTsNq1L9IBck_Ba-OygbfB10CSJbcHIf_IPeRVdOTgSOZY91SCViI3P3kQIa45W5SG67kRTdmsNO631AWpY-thY1MgF38/s1600/003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSUPTy8Nj4ryMw_XB3_hE0Fv3SCnonZKC5H7n7wq3R06MCWJpTsNq1L9IBck_Ba-OygbfB10CSJbcHIf_IPeRVdOTgSOZY91SCViI3P3kQIa45W5SG67kRTdmsNO631AWpY-thY1MgF38/s320/003.JPG" width="265" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt_FdEDPeOw5kPri8o1Ek-PavKtbtHVsQK4-ElUofIAsvMdPFSGCgvmm0oub7Nt81rxWF5je9TivTYYEWA26CE6KwXDIJ36lPdPvfGxKHCdGN6NSrAnt-scmML2trFUwOjgUoo-23Vj3k/s1600/009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt_FdEDPeOw5kPri8o1Ek-PavKtbtHVsQK4-ElUofIAsvMdPFSGCgvmm0oub7Nt81rxWF5je9TivTYYEWA26CE6KwXDIJ36lPdPvfGxKHCdGN6NSrAnt-scmML2trFUwOjgUoo-23Vj3k/s320/009.JPG" width="177" /></a></div>
<br />The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-86801173849657379432012-07-18T05:06:00.001-07:002012-07-18T05:06:50.315-07:00A BonnetThis I had been putting off for a little while as I was a bit scared of making it! I did think about purchasing a plain one already made, but I was looking at about £40 by the time I had decorated it. So I went onto ebay and picked up a plain straw hat for £11. I got some remnant silk from a local silk shop for £3 and some binding from the haberdashers. The silk organza I already had. I think that comes to around £20 when I add the ribbon I bought online last night!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIsy57hrkIP9jUrq74fADtqVQnMcRdXUwvWWXbo5WQJiXG3whyphenhyphennUUbCTQi0wf09H1oCVfQI9DU7Ei4s5MaCkwcwrYLH5uxCxLeat5P3D9tpcmw_3cs0d6stXaJFN-ppsG2I-HyByFGbRQ/s1600/008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="139" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIsy57hrkIP9jUrq74fADtqVQnMcRdXUwvWWXbo5WQJiXG3whyphenhyphennUUbCTQi0wf09H1oCVfQI9DU7Ei4s5MaCkwcwrYLH5uxCxLeat5P3D9tpcmw_3cs0d6stXaJFN-ppsG2I-HyByFGbRQ/s200/008.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
I looked at the various instructions of making a Regency bonnet on the internet, the best one being <a href="http://www.sallypointer.com/regencybonnet.html">here</a>. Before cutting the hat, I made the lining with the organza first so that it could be sewn in straight away when I had cut the hat (that was the scariest part!) I would recommend folding the hat in half and drawing a rough cutting line before actually cutting the hat. Note that the brim is curved at the bottom. I also cut a little out of the crown of the hat. I then stitched along the new edge, as the hat frays. Then I was able to sew on the binding to the edges, catching in the lining as I went.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaB6yVTnUSy0MPlqMKuB4vd6yOT8OErTHs1iIR2B4lsLE6YFvkmfngE6kWgLKhXedIETY7GhJf-Qh5XOlOi4V_RoSLkbbBGyjxoBJP3AfR6Gm0pkGreCZ-8cQogg6L_DGqtgy1axC7gCk/s1600/006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="103" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaB6yVTnUSy0MPlqMKuB4vd6yOT8OErTHs1iIR2B4lsLE6YFvkmfngE6kWgLKhXedIETY7GhJf-Qh5XOlOi4V_RoSLkbbBGyjxoBJP3AfR6Gm0pkGreCZ-8cQogg6L_DGqtgy1axC7gCk/s200/006.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPkU4HGFlnwz3uotBcnwEeJQQCrm5ZfAn7NqPXj_MCQGQx695NQekDrzhyUolvcAc9fSHuSxljLp1EcHuSB_kdVfW1Sq42YBsaCofAzFrTXqnAdo4zQVB5MHNytblsC5pACTkx1j6PJHM/s1600/001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPkU4HGFlnwz3uotBcnwEeJQQCrm5ZfAn7NqPXj_MCQGQx695NQekDrzhyUolvcAc9fSHuSxljLp1EcHuSB_kdVfW1Sq42YBsaCofAzFrTXqnAdo4zQVB5MHNytblsC5pACTkx1j6PJHM/s200/001.JPG" width="200" /></a>Once I had bound all the edges, I stitched down the second row of gathers on the lining to the edge of the crown, this holds it into place. With the leftover lining I folded neatly into the hat and stitched it down so it wouldn't come loose. After this I made the silk cover for the crown. I measure from the centre to the edge (6.75"), doubled it and added an extra inch to get the diameter of the circle needed. I them found a very big bowl with the same diameter and used that as a template! I then gathered the silk, folded the edge in about an inch as I went along. I placed it over the crown and pulled the thread so it gathered to the right size and then stitched it to the hat.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwGAPu0xr3fsQUJB53yk6TESkkRKaxN03FqDsX1rv18iVNl3qBiPEtiIUpOGbwSPj6xsgClK1XssJPp1R6T4Jah78rjGghQk02m9mC3TcPPn1Shd28aH7mwHeYMRD82PuIgxezY0-PTXg/s1600/012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwGAPu0xr3fsQUJB53yk6TESkkRKaxN03FqDsX1rv18iVNl3qBiPEtiIUpOGbwSPj6xsgClK1XssJPp1R6T4Jah78rjGghQk02m9mC3TcPPn1Shd28aH7mwHeYMRD82PuIgxezY0-PTXg/s200/012.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh56yU5A2FgiulKxV4XyAddEGBLSUWQ2D7He07SlT9M2NP2yzkgxUJT6aEFj4cGeww1jPBBzP4Odlq5BejqaTWLVO7Urzs7cpQAEe5SQ072OxDwwjpOdQQtTkzinsYzQMr21la2XVmH9d0/s1600/013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh56yU5A2FgiulKxV4XyAddEGBLSUWQ2D7He07SlT9M2NP2yzkgxUJT6aEFj4cGeww1jPBBzP4Odlq5BejqaTWLVO7Urzs7cpQAEe5SQ072OxDwwjpOdQQtTkzinsYzQMr21la2XVmH9d0/s200/013.JPG" width="200" /></a>All I have to do now is attach the ribbon when it arrives!The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-90708723681630854832012-07-18T04:41:00.001-07:002012-07-18T04:41:21.525-07:00Reticule<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisAhiMMW28_VwYno8lOJiuxkdxWaZ4DzC4IFJQaBTFrJqXEqFrb1Ue-GfVdj3TugF6xohLhog7QJvrGN6MuI6iwbUGj4RMuwOQcc53LB3eidHtwwgJLkWqAMl1ZpnIQsyotPxM4lkHP-8/s1600/025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisAhiMMW28_VwYno8lOJiuxkdxWaZ4DzC4IFJQaBTFrJqXEqFrb1Ue-GfVdj3TugF6xohLhog7QJvrGN6MuI6iwbUGj4RMuwOQcc53LB3eidHtwwgJLkWqAMl1ZpnIQsyotPxM4lkHP-8/s200/025.JPG" width="200" /></a>Next on my list for making was a reticule. I had a browse online to see what other people had done, and I came across <a href="http://teainateacup.wordpress.com/2012/04/02/my-regency-journey-making-reticules/">these wonderful instructions</a>. I made the basic reticule as I was wanting something for 'everyday' use. For mine, I used some leftover cotton from my stays and some plain white cotton to line. <br /><br />I used the same measurements given in the instructions. I then sewed the two pieces together, leaving the bottom edge open - the lining was slightly shorter than the outer fabric. I then folded and sewed the top edge down about 0.5" to form a channel for the drawstring. Then I stitched the side seams together. After this I gathered the lining up and stitched it firmly in place, followed by gathering the outer fabric. I gather them separately so that if either one of them comes apart, nothing will fall out of the reticule!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNChxHH50v67fVeLBByj_tzs2cXyn4HwkVUA-G2J08aHnVqbl13j1O3ijS8_6lqwSBkyKMc-Zwj_-LN-LsGekhuEHL-rn0Huq-JvNElUEqnVS6NsfmQ1jfzlRXN9RV4EM7xdmMnFy3a7c/s1600/020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNChxHH50v67fVeLBByj_tzs2cXyn4HwkVUA-G2J08aHnVqbl13j1O3ijS8_6lqwSBkyKMc-Zwj_-LN-LsGekhuEHL-rn0Huq-JvNElUEqnVS6NsfmQ1jfzlRXN9RV4EM7xdmMnFy3a7c/s200/020.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi34qMFVgrC2u37i5XPCPHtJYTyf5F_2yHCsAU8R2hhQbeTKe2HRuaXGv544mPdZ531c7EFENg0UQuew_Rrla5TPD5vi5Go6G3wf3frIlU2EsGBMOs7NhxPnlUuq3-8_DVj_l1efUUvo7k/s1600/023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="126" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi34qMFVgrC2u37i5XPCPHtJYTyf5F_2yHCsAU8R2hhQbeTKe2HRuaXGv544mPdZ531c7EFENg0UQuew_Rrla5TPD5vi5Go6G3wf3frIlU2EsGBMOs7NhxPnlUuq3-8_DVj_l1efUUvo7k/s200/023.JPG" width="200" /></a>As I was having two drawstrings for my reticule, and the fabric had been folded, I had to make a hole on the other side to allow for this - if that makes sense?! I snipped the channel on the opposite side to where I already had two hole for the drawstring and I whip stitched the edges so they didn't fray.<br />
<br />
I had bought some cream coloured cord to match my reticule fabric, and used this for the drawstrings. I think I need to purchase a tassel or two as it looks a bit bare without one!The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-63826048877991669992012-07-18T04:22:00.003-07:002012-07-18T04:22:57.239-07:00Regency Stays<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivPSlGH__Xgw2zJd6oIZzq4xwZMw6Yk3-AymrSbKu-LmSAG6aWOCfw95O8K7lN5imNeVmEtH03epXKuNZ9rCBS0BYUxjqvhzmYON46jtIXzBixluShmlPT-npNj5rhhFzLbO4TLLVVz3E/s1600/380342_10151002976666136_1768325796_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivPSlGH__Xgw2zJd6oIZzq4xwZMw6Yk3-AymrSbKu-LmSAG6aWOCfw95O8K7lN5imNeVmEtH03epXKuNZ9rCBS0BYUxjqvhzmYON46jtIXzBixluShmlPT-npNj5rhhFzLbO4TLLVVz3E/s200/380342_10151002976666136_1768325796_n.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoI4CtvqSon_7JIfTViiYiQnVasmIs2136Euhuea6EERdf0Ax8dk5yNYwJADJ77zErE11nFvi57GwiTOdw-5wTgMwYc6BcjTPPqY2eFgWnZvIc1y3VEgbwCKFYIkx5i37lJc8tcq3_vlw/s1600/552845_10151026471891136_428280418_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoI4CtvqSon_7JIfTViiYiQnVasmIs2136Euhuea6EERdf0Ax8dk5yNYwJADJ77zErE11nFvi57GwiTOdw-5wTgMwYc6BcjTPPqY2eFgWnZvIc1y3VEgbwCKFYIkx5i37lJc8tcq3_vlw/s200/552845_10151026471891136_428280418_n.jpg" width="200" /></a>Firstly I apologise...again. I lost motivation after making my Mary I style hood and didn't pick my needle up until after birthday, and since then I've had several events!<br />One of my birthday presents kick started my motivation - a pair of Regency spectacles in a case - and also the offer of going to an event (in August) in whatever period I wanted! So the clock started ticking...<br /><br />I had already made a start on my Regency long stays in January. For this I bought the Mantua Maker pattern. I must say, this is a great pattern to use and I highly recommend it to anyone. Of course, some adjustment was needed - I decided to make the straps separate, I lifted the 'cups' a little higher, and made the gussets higher too so that they sat on my waist. <br /><br />The pattern comes with two options, normal or riding (the latter having two of the four gussets laced). I went for the riding option, even though I never plan to go riding. This was because I thought I could loosen.tighten the extra lacing for comfort. It also meant having to sewn in fewer gussets! <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCdblClQtlYSyqecmijfc-v9TxCEUDuCYZSrvjM-MVq1KbHfOx8zPqcwm_nYCSgN2BZwsam9W3FPLzRMnWgJhj2rwlJnnOMD8RIKuAOC8LD4bkxk_xmMjvUKci0tRoJBuWILLmXiQoA_E/s1600/019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCdblClQtlYSyqecmijfc-v9TxCEUDuCYZSrvjM-MVq1KbHfOx8zPqcwm_nYCSgN2BZwsam9W3FPLzRMnWgJhj2rwlJnnOMD8RIKuAOC8LD4bkxk_xmMjvUKci0tRoJBuWILLmXiQoA_E/s200/019.JPG" width="164" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp1Er21EMVwq5xOGK0zanIRFeKquCO1o3geEtSCQoY80RaYp7HiHXfsDOsihzK28W28siwdmiQ0pbxBnt3Ncfipmbs5TA0LJRik44OSV_MoAvA1WHLR1IWpL6Smb58xQvbSQmkUo8sy2Q/s1600/015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp1Er21EMVwq5xOGK0zanIRFeKquCO1o3geEtSCQoY80RaYp7HiHXfsDOsihzK28W28siwdmiQ0pbxBnt3Ncfipmbs5TA0LJRik44OSV_MoAvA1WHLR1IWpL6Smb58xQvbSQmkUo8sy2Q/s200/015.JPG" width="161" /></a>The instructions were very simple (do read them before starting!), although having made various boned undergarments before, I didn't really read them after I got going. For my stays, I used a paisley printed cream cotton for the outer fabric, canvas for the interlining, and calico for the lining. The main seams were machine sewn, but everything else (as it gets quite fiddly) was hand sewn. <br /><br />I don't think I having anything else to add, but feel free to ask questions!The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-69351603135138603812012-03-28T13:57:00.008-07:002012-03-28T14:47:10.460-07:00Mary Hood (not related to Robin)Yes, it really has been that long since my last post and that's because boys and girls I ran out of motivation to sew anything, but alas my sewing bug has returneth!<br /><br />At the beginning <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMZMfcRPWXr92n1vgERY8xIUi4A6PKWpJP3YKtze7B8hg-cGf6Ep3BBQ39n_j35jtRqsVTintkc2RC30g7SjOKBWtClXP4LeAHm24o7QlCPzPEM6l8LY-r0zlmKKLEA0jnskBYFlj3JM/s1600/008+%25282%2529.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 204px; height: 122px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMZMfcRPWXr92n1vgERY8xIUi4A6PKWpJP3YKtze7B8hg-cGf6Ep3BBQ39n_j35jtRqsVTintkc2RC30g7SjOKBWtClXP4LeAHm24o7QlCPzPEM6l8LY-r0zlmKKLEA0jnskBYFlj3JM/s320/008+%25282%2529.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5725065683469472162" border="0" /></a>of March, I made a start on a Mary I style hood for this years <a href="http://www.kentwell.co.uk/">Kentwell</a> events. For this, I took the measurement from the middle on my head to the bottom of my ear, but making sure I squared it off (does that make sense?) as they Mary I hood is quite boxy! I also measured from the centre of my head to the back of my head so I knew the depth the hood should, roughly, be. Then I took these measurements and drew them onto scrap paper before transferring onto cardboard for a toile. I was pleased with the ini<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLAgpO-FvOvBmXiUEkNAQJYvMlQIUc8_gNXL6_RJ_IbBZo3G9Z_IG9Osw28D5AWJF2g8eBqH0V1wI1y1OHYSx_rXxl6v40ZewvWWEV90eg_gLwomJ-4C6UCEz_Y3cbKaYDlhmowS-CbTY/s1600/013+%25282%2529.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 154px; height: 154px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLAgpO-FvOvBmXiUEkNAQJYvMlQIUc8_gNXL6_RJ_IbBZo3G9Z_IG9Osw28D5AWJF2g8eBqH0V1wI1y1OHYSx_rXxl6v40ZewvWWEV90eg_gLwomJ-4C6UCEz_Y3cbKaYDlhmowS-CbTY/s320/013+%25282%2529.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5725066065428118354" border="0" /></a>tial results, but I did have to take a bit off of the depth and shape the ends a little.<br /><br />Once I was happy, I drew the pattern onto some stiff buckram. I then sewed on some millinery wire around the edges so that the hood could be shaped. After this, I covered the buckram in some scrap cotton (using the pattern and adding seam allowance) - this protects and provides a smooth layer before the fashion fabric is attached.<br /><br />A week later, I sewed on the fashion fabric - a fine black silk - and then the lining underneath. I then left the hood again until the weekend just gone, when I m<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD6sIYWLsZDXHYWIC3VG3JCNT5eMyqsjrgQqrJcvwD_d7aW1EQYRQ-VVjrCNSYri6KcZLYG4xQfY6XOFlDJaZsfhxIMSfJOkn_KxVn881jdp2deGq5BHVZpeBAsLJAZYxjQ0TUjLYlmbw/s1600/012.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 184px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD6sIYWLsZDXHYWIC3VG3JCNT5eMyqsjrgQqrJcvwD_d7aW1EQYRQ-VVjrCNSYri6KcZLYG4xQfY6XOFlDJaZsfhxIMSfJOkn_KxVn881jdp2deGq5BHVZpeBAsLJAZYxjQ0TUjLYlmbw/s320/012.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5725066487139034050" border="0" /></a>anaged to pluck up the courage to sew on the billiment (hood decoration). I used pearls for this (fake ones) and I started sewing them on individually, until I realised how complicated it was. I decided to thread them onto doubled embroidery thread as I have heard tale of people damaging their hoods and all their decoration falling off! When I had my string of pearls, I then sewing them onto the back edge of the hood sewing a few stitches between each pearl.<br /><br />I then left my hood to let my fingers recover from severe needle action! For the veil, I used the toile <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIjDKgG5Wc9bFGzG-dMyH_wXqu-RxgsqHZ6sBW-aH862saBXGY8qx23881xkUosMDuGfY3ar9rcXYif7kc9-oK5DHFedmIuxVtdRGqffQ3d36sJhyphenhyphenT4o1tECHtYzrHHuXdvnAE3uiX4iU/s1600/003.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 191px; height: 159px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIjDKgG5Wc9bFGzG-dMyH_wXqu-RxgsqHZ6sBW-aH862saBXGY8qx23881xkUosMDuGfY3ar9rcXYif7kc9-oK5DHFedmIuxVtdRGqffQ3d36sJhyphenhyphenT4o1tECHtYzrHHuXdvnAE3uiX4iU/s320/003.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5725066937303719026" border="0" /></a>one I made for a French hood I made while I was at Sixth Form as the pattern piece. I can't remember where I got the pattern for it from, but <a href="http://www.tudortailor.com/">The Tudor Tailor</a> does provide a good pattern (or you might be able to draft one by looking at my photos). I made the veil in the same black silk as the hood. I hemmed the top and bottom before sewing the sides together. I then sewed about half of the veil onto the back edge of the hood and gathered the other half so that it would fit nicely onto the head.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNYp1wvdJBQbb1J3ln_gOIWVA3bqkpjaIlhBOPkaZfGrGOEH8u4Pvpc6qACY0xR0Tds0oeqcq6zXj02Wy71fH_304cHPZqLS6zHdeNVvQy_JdUZ196RqWE4oO21XgLDP_U18_N7nTSvtQ/s1600/014.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 241px; height: 236px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNYp1wvdJBQbb1J3ln_gOIWVA3bqkpjaIlhBOPkaZfGrGOEH8u4Pvpc6qACY0xR0Tds0oeqcq6zXj02Wy71fH_304cHPZqLS6zHdeNVvQy_JdUZ196RqWE4oO21XgLDP_U18_N7nTSvtQ/s320/014.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5725067216110975714" border="0" /></a>The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-73776370262197270892012-02-14T13:25:00.003-08:002012-02-14T13:40:39.620-08:00Swinging back to the '50s!For some time now I have been longing to make a 1950s circle skirt. A couple of weeks ago, I had two excuses: my friend's 21st and £15 off voucher at my local haberdashers!<br /><br />Flicking through the pattern books in the shop, I came across the perfect pattern - Simplicity 5403. Just like it's name, it is simple to use and very quick to put together so I wholly recommend it! The only alterations I had to make was the hem - it was too long for my liking and so I took it up 5".<br /><br />The fabric I used for it was a lovely blue cotton with little white spots. I will upload a photo of my entire outfit after the weekend, but here it is so far:<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsj4HKDyG8exGins4qCqPHa326uA4hhuOOyfjipRk72z8e_AYbN3v_wQ1DCNCvGdBIUaIMmWeScBUw-7fwxgUKF-GSpJwoGh1zigLTlFVuVx_jvZ9OiTn_naKPfjkSHWSkFzxd4TA-UVU/s1600/003.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 290px; height: 254px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsj4HKDyG8exGins4qCqPHa326uA4hhuOOyfjipRk72z8e_AYbN3v_wQ1DCNCvGdBIUaIMmWeScBUw-7fwxgUKF-GSpJwoGh1zigLTlFVuVx_jvZ9OiTn_naKPfjkSHWSkFzxd4TA-UVU/s320/003.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5709109169742525986" border="0" /></a>The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-90794997389111231192012-02-01T09:49:00.000-08:002012-02-01T10:02:52.915-08:00Tricorn at a Third of the Price!<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVSuZXoyC3c3ikZgCpXlFyoPb66UCCRmLhFHuMgDpKrDM_UFio7roloY6Hz8goCShH6NAkGlR0JjHKgQiOShAu4oe372FlylXFr-WursoOXeLcsoruwnllg4NRO5fZFmuDFk-L6vzZnLU/s1600/018.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 167px; height: 130px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVSuZXoyC3c3ikZgCpXlFyoPb66UCCRmLhFHuMgDpKrDM_UFio7roloY6Hz8goCShH6NAkGlR0JjHKgQiOShAu4oe372FlylXFr-WursoOXeLcsoruwnllg4NRO5fZFmuDFk-L6vzZnLU/s320/018.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704228726486346162" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjneKVdxuWh25qk2W_cREV66z2XP0C15HToH6tDRjTh2353cwN4pxlGv408hsoTDcs66OmJFfKP85O4XwVNlmzuZwBpKcVCF4CUMrShmvwIXbzTU9T3ZWrSEhn0xXNK8M47AHznwbW1gVY/s1600/002.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 152px; height: 114px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjneKVdxuWh25qk2W_cREV66z2XP0C15HToH6tDRjTh2353cwN4pxlGv408hsoTDcs66OmJFfKP85O4XwVNlmzuZwBpKcVCF4CUMrShmvwIXbzTU9T3ZWrSEhn0xXNK8M47AHznwbW1gVY/s320/002.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704227974770647906" border="0" /></a><br />Whilst out shopping with a friend of mine, I came across a very cheap, black felt, wide-brim hat for £3. I'm sorry, but even a reenactor couldn't miss a bargain like that - it would make the perfect tricorn!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjITSgpCQ3LmaxUCFDJqYW5PNFQokZnW-PDK6uiCrKo2eesdoxgMP3ISS5nanryW7oH2-44UhSvsEO2W6SAWwwt-xbZntyNs4NbCQbJZ9iBcXZEPUg5UFWcdi_BZJEzqTiYZNl9LYX1H3o/s1600/024.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 136px; height: 179px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjITSgpCQ3LmaxUCFDJqYW5PNFQokZnW-PDK6uiCrKo2eesdoxgMP3ISS5nanryW7oH2-44UhSvsEO2W6SAWwwt-xbZntyNs4NbCQbJZ9iBcXZEPUg5UFWcdi_BZJEzqTiYZNl9LYX1H3o/s320/024.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704228732006051170" border="0" /></a><br />So that is what I did today. I cut down the felt trim it had around the crown before pinning up the centre back and two sides. I had to play about a bit to get it right/equal. When I was happy, I sewed these sides with embroidery thread in a 'X' shape (see photo). Afterwards, I added some gold cord, which one of my friends had used to tie my 21st birthday present with, to the edge of the hat. Hey presto, I now have a tricorn for C18th and pirate usage at low cost!The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-74127479227802039622012-01-23T04:17:00.000-08:002012-01-23T04:33:56.671-08:00Meet Georgiana!I absolutely love the C18th Queen Anne dolls and would love to own a repro one so that I can clothe it. However, I could never afford the wooden doll itself. But I had a brainwave - why not make my own version from fabric? And so the clogs started turning...<br /><br />You can follow the progress on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/GeorgianaDoll">Facebook.</a>The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-50769085032186926482012-01-06T09:00:00.000-08:002012-01-06T09:06:06.649-08:00Complete C18th 'scummy' Kit.<div>Here is the complete outfit.<br />Yes, this is also proof that I travelled home, via the London Underground, in said kit.</div><div> </div><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; width: 228px; height: 294px; text-align: center; display: block; cursor: pointer;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5694566085134173218" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNJ26dbwwf2izW0iWQpYR-2EFCVfPgzet60pHhbTC4ND2cNMUGhoMlRmVyJZ5Vt2F7rpvLR0ctoEdxFlWkNReo6xkoNlFoFXNMgVLVLYPAsRUQWs4cD7FCq2rSyTeBdxAZQ987uPxL8mM/s320/DSCN0136.JPG" />The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-4982363562965890022012-01-06T08:43:00.000-08:002012-01-06T08:59:26.501-08:00Another Jacket: Part 2Well, I managed to get my jacket finished before the new year. I cut out the wool and linen and sewed them up separately and then sewed them both together at the neckline and hem. I then patterned for some sleeves. I used the pattern I had for my polonaise gown to get me started and adjusted it to make them full length. I made a toile before cutting out the real thing and they fitted perfectly.<br /><br />I used the sewing machine to contruct the sleeves, partly because I couldn't face hand sewing them and partly because the fabric is quite thick where there are seams! I sewed the wool and linen together at the cuff first before opening them out and sewing down the main sleeve seam. I then sewed them into the jacket with the seam at the back and about an inch of gathers at the back too - just like on my gown.<br /><br />Then tried it on. Again, I needed to take in a lot of fabric on the jacket straps - I think it's time for me to draft a new pattern for these! And I also pinned the line I needed to sew down at the centre front. For this, I turned the wool and linen inside the jacket and ladder stitched it up. I then sewed on some hook and eye tape for the fastening.<br /><br />It was after trying it on, to find it gaping, that the original jacket had concealed lacing. So this was what I did. I had some scrap home-made binding leftover and used 10" for each side and sewed in some eyelets. Using shoelaces as a temporary measure and cross-lacing it, it worked - no more gaping, huzzah! I'm rather pleased with the result. I also made a bow from some scrap wool for decoration.The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-50924755507345799662012-01-04T11:22:00.000-08:002012-01-04T11:55:13.889-08:00Operation Petticoat<div><div>So I'm putting together 'lower orders' C18th kit as you know - see previous post on jacket (which is finished, but need a good photo). I bought some striped linen from <a href="http://shop.tinsmiths.co.uk/">Tinsmiths,</a> it was cheaper than most of their linens, but the top end of my personal budget. To be honest, having looked about online and in local shops, there is nothing in the way of striped line. Cotton, yes, but no linen.<br /><br />Anyway, I ordered it late last year and then found out a couple of days later that the shop is closed until 3rd January. I was really hoping I would get it by today (4th January) because I had the great idea and temptation to travel on the London Underground in my 'scummy' kit after dancing in my 'posh' stuff at the Twelfth Night celebrations at <a href="http://www.drjohnsonshouse.org/">Dr. Johnson's House</a> on 5th January. </div><div> </div><div>Well, it turned up, as I hoped just before 10.15 this morning. I was now racing against the clock to get the petticoat made. After washing the fabric, drying it in front of the Aga, and then ironing it, at 1.40pm I made a start on measuring the length I needed. As the fabric is 150cm wide, I only needed to buy enough for the length I wanted for my petticoat, plus a little extra just in case.<br /><br />Once cut, I pinned and sewed up the side seams on the sewing machine, leaving a 10" gap at the top to allow access to the pockets. As it was the selvedge, I didn't need to the neaten the seam, hurrah! With the seams ironed open, I turned up a 2" hem and hand sewed this. Then ironed the hem. </div><div> </div><div>After this, I pleated the waist. I had a 2" box pleat in the centre and then fourteen 0.5" pleats either side. I pinned these first and then machine sewed them. It was now time to add the waistband. </div><div>I used 1" wide white cotton tape for this. I cut two lengths long enough to go around my waist and tie into a bow. I then machine sewed one length onto the back waist, folding it over the pleats to cover the raw edge, and the other length onto the front waist. </div><div>To some this may sound odd. The way this is worn is that the back is tied first (the ties brought round to the front and tied) and then the front (ties taken round to the back and tied). This allows for the pocket slits to overlap (noone wants their pocket slits gaping!) and also means it can be worn by pretty much anyone. And hey presto, the petticoat is finished!<br /><br />Now, it may need some altering and its length, but I wont know that until I wear it tomorrow.<br />Here's a photo of it at the moment:<img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; width: 182px; height: 312px; text-align: center; display: block; cursor: pointer;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5693867056925952834" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHfEvZ473VACJdW4L7MoCHkrUupyvRS2JDznwmddZFX-l4qdNQp1NNxGKrKsw0gbWDvs7i4cUQy-VWEW9Xi1VYkWotuRnXEr-xuxYVhZaCHQyrMrVm_xDNxlnE3fGAim_XVTiPRhVyCpw/s320/DSCN0071.JPG" /></div></div>The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-79877313880262150342011-12-15T14:21:00.000-08:002011-12-15T14:21:53.133-08:00Another jacket.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK6r_0J6x_JxYaZ6gNMI9KqOW3TlnySWLRXU6SLcwtSPCq_col_RZhuwRiZ50GNAHH1VvQDRNWtY09tDfG2VPGQnj24tf8kh2-WD3C4-YTq5TqWKPu1AXBlB_6MIodO-bGAPGCbaTdv2g/s1600/Photo-0078.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 201px; height: 142px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK6r_0J6x_JxYaZ6gNMI9KqOW3TlnySWLRXU6SLcwtSPCq_col_RZhuwRiZ50GNAHH1VvQDRNWtY09tDfG2VPGQnj24tf8kh2-WD3C4-YTq5TqWKPu1AXBlB_6MIodO-bGAPGCbaTdv2g/s320/Photo-0078.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5686482857877832258" border="0" /></a>An C18th one this time, 1770s to be precise.<br />This was quite easy to pattern seeing as I helped my friend with hers so it was a pretty similar process.<br /><br />I used the bodice pattern pieces from my polonaise gown and adjusted them according to this <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladyannis/6517894947/">pattern</a> which looks like <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladyannis/6517895139/">this</a> when complete (You can just about see on the back piece the lines I've made where I've joined the two back pieces from my gown to make them one). The skirt of my jacket measures 9" at the CB, 7" at the sides and 6.5" at the front.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqB2fAYmxZO0Lvbqm0cuHihyphenhyphenOvNckeJkXQdFKVYF3UWZq07gl_stjC2n6ZeHwZ_-9kGiocpqrosnwbA4nwGCXx6pI_iDUnOMV_I609I1ejLgLI9WaVseuGZYFrtEQOftTGwPHWJ3OVa9I/s1600/Photo-0070.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 141px; height: 163px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqB2fAYmxZO0Lvbqm0cuHihyphenhyphenOvNckeJkXQdFKVYF3UWZq07gl_stjC2n6ZeHwZ_-9kGiocpqrosnwbA4nwGCXx6pI_iDUnOMV_I609I1ejLgLI9WaVseuGZYFrtEQOftTGwPHWJ3OVa9I/s320/Photo-0070.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5686483293478889250" border="0" /></a><br />I made a toile and it fitted pretty much perfectly - I had to move the gore up to the waist line and the straps needed taking in (which I expected as I had to do that on my gown). I haven't yet patterned or made a toile of the sleeves y<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr6m12cC-f2nYgieStSEX4ekA4c0OSlLshqwiDUxpkTN8o6vhukrWjw1ISc2H6QtyGiyFerJYrPgYsGwPjESMPNgyp88yC0dt8EV2SFAOIkIwnxI98_1FljN7d2ZvoNvg84QUjm6kaEhs/s1600/Photo-0077.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 165px; height: 205px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr6m12cC-f2nYgieStSEX4ekA4c0OSlLshqwiDUxpkTN8o6vhukrWjw1ISc2H6QtyGiyFerJYrPgYsGwPjESMPNgyp88yC0dt8EV2SFAOIkIwnxI98_1FljN7d2ZvoNvg84QUjm6kaEhs/s320/Photo-0077.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5686483581439198130" border="0" /></a>et. I shall use the sleeve pattern I had for my gown and lengthen it before I make a toile when I buy some cheap fabric!<br /><br />So next thing I've done is cut out the pieces in the fashion fabric. I set aside the left over navy blue wool I had previously used for my early Tudor gown. I will take this away with me tomorrow as I have a 5 day event starting this weekend so it will give me something to do if I have a spare moment in the evenings!<br /><br />This is as far as I have got at the moment. I plan to line the jacket in some white/ivory linen I had left over from lining my Burgundian gown (I see a theme here), I think I also have some left over hook and eye tape from my polonaise...The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-62659940994488359902011-12-05T15:07:00.000-08:002011-12-05T15:15:46.786-08:00Jacket in action!For the past couple of weekends, I have been at <a href="http://www.holkham.co.uk/">Holkham Hall </a>in North Norfolk for some Victorian Christmas events.<br />I thought you would like to see my entire ensemble:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2SK91lkcpUA2uVUHMuX0FL4z0fOw6EdJRhY_1jv4jBaCg0YFPLRAojqzmGc4iknIkfwRtyY-yn1zGakG2cfOFu-aKshGrMmElKv6i7R3_4XZ9w6Yvnrp1ZZD8rfYzdRDm0yOAkpIbUHo/s1600/006.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 295px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2SK91lkcpUA2uVUHMuX0FL4z0fOw6EdJRhY_1jv4jBaCg0YFPLRAojqzmGc4iknIkfwRtyY-yn1zGakG2cfOFu-aKshGrMmElKv6i7R3_4XZ9w6Yvnrp1ZZD8rfYzdRDm0yOAkpIbUHo/s320/006.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5682786768388319826" border="0" /></a>The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-58695147464135254852011-11-25T12:16:00.001-08:002011-11-25T12:39:57.323-08:00Zouave JacketI have a few Victorian events coming up (the next two weekends in fact) so I decided to make myself a Victorian jacket suitable for 1860s as that is the date of my dress. Having done a bit of research, I came across and fell in love with this <a href="http://yeoldefashion.tumblr.com/post/584323471/an-1863-jacket-in-the-zouave-style-zouave-jackets">one</a>. I decided I would make my own version of the Zouave jacket.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSDCexBEf8Y-zYz5VESVU1cOHOlBuX5JQOuddMQvECXhbGg670GNyVsJi6EAcDlc_EXZNFDXc7axA8u6Wi-DP1degB4geBMYRwj1hhY3eLbtVRK-Qeh37syjGvHFA93PP7LblLrZcuAEo/s1600/Photo-0069.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 163px; height: 167px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSDCexBEf8Y-zYz5VESVU1cOHOlBuX5JQOuddMQvECXhbGg670GNyVsJi6EAcDlc_EXZNFDXc7axA8u6Wi-DP1degB4geBMYRwj1hhY3eLbtVRK-Qeh37syjGvHFA93PP7LblLrZcuAEo/s320/Photo-0069.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5679034541556520386" border="0" /></a><br />For this I put on my Victorian garb and took all necessary measurements - bust, waist, hips, collar, armhole and the lengths between each one. I drafted up a simple pattern and made a toile. Wearing it over my Victorian stuff, it require a fair bit of pinning and altering until I got the right shape. It turned out that the CF has a curve to accommodate the bust, although having helped a friend pattern and make an C18th jacket around the same time, it seems quite normal to have a curve.<br /><br />Anyway, once the pattern was sorted and I was satisfied, I could start making it! I used a fine black wool for the outer fabric and a <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZoWnfAyEND5Gnxaoh9UZsyBLTw7Hl6Fp522UECipqOidDcy7i56S6XfZFTxcKQlzIj5sewgHJ1LDdFGoq-S8Z5j8mOBUP6tB16uuPO5R6J79xXUyqzsZaR6Q6WwNoduuXlpATnEKu36w/s1600/Photo-0070.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 142px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZoWnfAyEND5Gnxaoh9UZsyBLTw7Hl6Fp522UECipqOidDcy7i56S6XfZFTxcKQlzIj5sewgHJ1LDdFGoq-S8Z5j8mOBUP6tB16uuPO5R6J79xXUyqzsZaR6Q6WwNoduuXlpATnEKu36w/s320/Photo-0070.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5679035117416966818" border="0" /></a>cotton/linen blend for the lining. I made the outer fabric and the lining up separately and then sewed them together at the collar and down the front edges - it turned out I needed to make the collar slightly bigger as it was a bit tight on the neck!<br /><br />For the sleeves - Pagoda sleeves - I used the pattern that came with my Victorian dress <a href="http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/Products/Laughing_Moon_Ladies_Early_1860s_Day_Dress.html">pattern</a>. I measured my jacket armhole so I could work out which size to cut out from the pattern - it fitted perfectly - I did make the pattern a bit shorter though. Once I had cut out the outer and lining fabric, I joined them together by sewing along the cuff and then sewing down the sleeve seam. Afterwards, I then sewed them into the armhole. As the seam allowance for the sleeves was 5/8" and my jacket was 1" (just in case I needed to make adjustments!) this extra allowance was perfect for neatening the seam which I then sewed flat.<br /><br />As for the jacket fastening, I cheated. I loathe hooks and eyes and I really didn't fancy sewing them every inch so instead I bought some black hook and eye tape.<br /><br />For the decoration I bought some red cord. I then made up my own pattern as the one on the extant jacket is a bit complicated and fiddly! I think it looks rather effective!<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO0zKgL2fUtXYKsuvDn-jvfUZZJQpxS9diQvAzeVSWbf9PKTGL63UWdWwbHEcF2ZGgHaSs3gOcqsbtoDAWiQ4foYnBZIYIgWJlTRDbWTuiIxEFV8NlNmxCO7O6U-rHC5YODHrZ8r7yGTY/s1600/004.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 189px; height: 109px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO0zKgL2fUtXYKsuvDn-jvfUZZJQpxS9diQvAzeVSWbf9PKTGL63UWdWwbHEcF2ZGgHaSs3gOcqsbtoDAWiQ4foYnBZIYIgWJlTRDbWTuiIxEFV8NlNmxCO7O6U-rHC5YODHrZ8r7yGTY/s320/004.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5679035548275964962" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxoNwZviCu6za_ghDmDHNoGAnSLed84mXMIHPp-ktmtlBSL9P1IzdN822Tgum2sStdaDMzuQWbo93C-UrjNFVk3yvJQpnH5E4-F4gS0B2gUmShwKxdBFcNN59ZCYwe79E1gLghm3LlqgM/s1600/006.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 203px; height: 110px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxoNwZviCu6za_ghDmDHNoGAnSLed84mXMIHPp-ktmtlBSL9P1IzdN822Tgum2sStdaDMzuQWbo93C-UrjNFVk3yvJQpnH5E4-F4gS0B2gUmShwKxdBFcNN59ZCYwe79E1gLghm3LlqgM/s320/006.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5679035758876317442" border="0" /></a><br />Once I had completely finished my jacket, I tried it on with the rest of my Victorian stuff and took photos. I also found that I also had to add in a couple of darts in the back for a better fit.<br /><a href="http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/Products/Laughing_Moon_Ladies_Early_1860s_Day_Dress.html"> </a>The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-74901457070531684682011-10-22T02:52:00.000-07:002011-10-22T02:59:06.448-07:00ATSSince finishing my C18th gown, I haven't really done much sewing other than alterations to my repro Auxiliary Territorial Service (ATS) SD uniform.<br />The skirt fitted fine, just needed taking up 3", but a fair bit of work had to go into the tunic. That too had to be taken up 3" and taken in at the waist by about 10"! From the leftover serge, I had to make a belt and when I get round to it, new epaulettes.<br />Here is a photo (courtesy of my friend 'Kitty') of its first outing at Norfolk Living History Fayre at <a href="http://web.mac.com/rogerwalpole/iWeb/2008%20Website/Home.html">Mannington Hall</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_TQZnv2S4eufr0kmrR92Rew25ISneDMt5JDSuMsymRiHK1ejZmSYpKprMAcxgbgBsxq8oDuYLtnZccFWUrD3QaBKr89dftmxe-kvXTw47N1GeH9RLwMg-v22Ex3Yw_wDZDYTgzM-W3M8/s1600/322509_2401612112993_1031784964_2726926_1478349214_o.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_TQZnv2S4eufr0kmrR92Rew25ISneDMt5JDSuMsymRiHK1ejZmSYpKprMAcxgbgBsxq8oDuYLtnZccFWUrD3QaBKr89dftmxe-kvXTw47N1GeH9RLwMg-v22Ex3Yw_wDZDYTgzM-W3M8/s320/322509_2401612112993_1031784964_2726926_1478349214_o.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5666253556227074482" border="0" /></a>The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2073571421364099838.post-84073022324670235362011-09-18T07:00:00.000-07:002011-09-18T07:13:46.812-07:00C18th BeautySo, 16 months later I have a completely hand sewn C18th outfit - the gown alone took 9 months, but that's because I had problems with the sleeves and so put them at the bottom of the sewing pile, which is just as well as they now fit me!<br /><br />I wont go into massive detail about the sleeves - they're similar to early modern in that they have the seam running along the back of the arm. They are also a little longer (tapering to a point) at the back so it covers the elbow. And they are big enough so that they can be gathered at the shoulders - my gathers measure at 2".<br /><br />The skirt is made from 3 panels because my silk wasn't that wide. The back panel is the widest and then there are 2 narrow ones for the front. I can't remember the measurements off the top of my head, but if you want to know just ask and I will measure them. They were probably about 40" in length to allow for hems and to fit over my petal pad which makes the bottom bigger! The skirt was hemmed first and then the waist seam was turn over to get the right length. It was then pleated (about .75" pleats) and sewn to the bodice.<br /><br />After all this, it was time to make the gown look pretty and even more C18th! I made cuffs that are permanant ones from the same silk - often seen on extant gowns. The width was twice the sleeve measurement at the elbow (so 14" x 2 = 28") and 3" at the longest point, tapering to 1" - I added extra for seam allowance. Once these were sewn on I had to make and sew on metres of pinked and pleated 1" wide trim. I eyeballed the pleats for this as my silk is stripey so I used the stripes as measurements. It worked out that around a 4m strip of silk, when pleated, would give me about 60" of trim.<br /><br />To see the finished outfit and gown please follow this <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladyannis/sets/72157627696655438/">link.</a>The Sewing Boxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06554911991452678828noreply@blogger.com0